NATO Strap: History, Military Origins and James Bond
In 1973, the British Ministry of Defence commissioned a strap capable of withstanding any condition — and of keeping the watch on the wrist even if a spring bar broke. This woven nylon strap, originally designated G10, would become one of the most iconic accessories in world watchmaking. Discover its history and browse our NATO strap collection.
The NATO watch strap: a piece of history worn every day
Few watch accessories can claim such a remarkable journey: born in the British Army, popularised by James Bond, adopted by Rolex and Omega collectors worldwide, the NATO watch strap is today one of the most widely worn straps in the world — and one of the rare ones to remain genuinely timeless.
Its strength? A pass-through construction that puts security first, military-grade woven nylon that holds its shape under any conditions, and an instantly recognisable style that adapts to any timepiece and any personality.
Browse our full selection: NATO straps — available in 18, 20, 22 and 24 mm, in a wide range of colours.
1973: British military origins
The story begins in 1973 in the United Kingdom. The British Ministry of Defence (MOD) needed to equip its soldiers with a reliable, durable and affordable strap capable of withstanding the most demanding conditions.
The existing options each had critical weaknesses:
- Leather absorbed moisture and deteriorated rapidly under sweat and repeated immersion
- Rubber lacked long-term reliability
- On a traditional strap, a single broken spring bar was enough to lose the watch entirely
The solution developed by British military engineers used high-resistance woven nylon and, crucially, a pass-through design: the strap runs underneath the watch case. Even if one of the stainless steel spring bars failed, the watch would remain securely attached to the wrist via the second pass-through.
This technical innovation — simple, effective, and reproducible — remains the primary reason why divers, military personnel and demanding sports enthusiasts continue to wear a NATO strap today.
G10, NATO, OTAN: where does the name come from?
When it was first issued, this strap was not officially called a NATO strap. British soldiers received it via a military requisition form designated G10 — which is why purists still refer to it as the G10 strap.
The NATO designation gradually spread through the watch community, linked to the logistical coding systems used within the North Atlantic Treaty Organisation. Over time, the name became universal and now refers to virtually all nylon straps inspired by the British military original.
The spirit remains unchanged: simplicity, robustness, efficiency.
James Bond and the NATO strap: an iconic partnership
If the NATO strap is known far beyond watch collector circles, it is largely thanks to James Bond. As early as 1964, in Goldfinger, Sean Connery wears his Rolex Submariner on a black and grey striped strap. While this strap did not yet match the military standard formalised in 1973, it is now recognised as its direct ancestor and left a lasting mark on the collective imagination of watch enthusiasts.
The combination of a Rolex Submariner and the black and grey James Bond strap has become one of the most sought-after pairings in the collector world — well beyond the film itself. The same colourway appears in Spectre, Quantum of Solace and several other Bond films.
Our reference model inspired by this legend:
James Bond NATO Strap Black Grey 20mm
The technical advantages of the NATO strap
Superior security compared to traditional straps
The pass-through construction is the NATO strap's most decisive technical advantage. On a traditional strap, a broken spring bar means the watch falls immediately. On a NATO strap, the watch remains held in place by the second pass-through beneath the case — a passive, permanent safety feature requiring no additional action.
Military-grade woven nylon
The nylon used in NATO straps is woven to resist salt water, perspiration, UV rays and repeated impacts. It dries quickly, holds its shape, and can be cleaned easily with warm water and mild soap. Some models can even be gently machine-washed in a laundry bag.
Marine-grade stainless steel buckle and keepers
The buckle and keepers are in marine-grade stainless steel — corrosion-resistant, lightweight, and sized to fit all wrists from 16 cm to 24 cm in circumference. This allows the NATO strap to be worn over a diving suit.
The strap measures 27 cm in length: any excess simply folds into the last keeper, with no cutting required.
Unbeatable value for money
Changing the appearance of a collector's watch has never been more accessible. A NATO strap can radically transform a timepiece for under €20 — which is why many collectors own several colours to vary their style with the seasons and occasions.
How to recognise a quality NATO watch strap?
Not all NATO straps are equal. An authentic quality NATO strap can be identified by precise criteria, inherited from the 1973 military specification:
- A single piece of woven nylon, with no join or gluing
- A one-piece marine stainless steel buckle, sewn directly into the fabric — without a fixed bar, for greater security
- A controlled thickness between 1.2 and 1.5 mm
- Heat-sealed holes, which limit deformation over time
- Stainless steel keepers, rectangular or round Zulu-style
On entry-level straps, stitching loosens after a few washes and the buckle deforms quickly. A NATO strap manufactured to original standards retains its shape for years.
How to choose the right NATO strap width?
The strap width must match your watch's lug width exactly — that is, the distance between the two lugs on the case, measured in millimetres. An incorrect width will prevent fitting.
The four widths available on our site:
- 18mm NATO Straps — vintage watches, dress watches, classic chronographs of moderate diameter
- 20mm NATO Straps — the most common width: Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, Omega Speedmaster, Hamilton Khaki Field, Seiko SKX
- 22mm NATO Straps — modern dive watches and large-diameter sports watches (e.g. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor)
- 24mm NATO Straps — imposing military watches, Panerai, adventure timepieces
If in doubt, measure your lug width with a calliper or check your watch's technical specifications. The lug width is always listed in the case dimensions.
NATO straps and Rolex watches
The pairing of Rolex and NATO strap is one of the most natural associations in contemporary watchmaking. Collectors appreciate the ability to radically transform the look of a prestigious timepiece without touching the watch itself.
The Rolex models most frequently paired with a NATO strap:
- Rolex Submariner — the black and grey James Bond combo remains the definitive reference
- Rolex GMT-Master II — navy blue, red-and-blue or khaki colourways bring an adventurous character
- Rolex Explorer — clean and legible, pairs naturally with black or olive green NATO
- Rolex Sea-Dweller — the ruggedness of the NATO complements this extreme dive calibre perfectly
- Rolex Milgauss — a contemporary, distinctive touch with a coloured NATO
NATO straps and Omega watches
Omega has a historical relationship with the NATO strap. The Swiss brand even offers its own textile strap collections inspired by the military original — a clear sign that the pairing is fully endorsed by the major watch houses.
On an Omega Seamaster, the NATO reinforces the maritime and sporting character of the watch. On a Speedmaster — the icon of space exploration worn by NASA astronauts — it brings a more relaxed, contemporary feel while remaining true to the model's adventurous DNA.
The most sought-after colours on Omega: navy blue, anthracite grey, solid black.
Tudor, Hamilton, Seiko: other natural pairings
While Rolex and Omega attract most of the search interest, other watches pair naturally with a NATO strap:
- Tudor Black Bay — the vintage and military inspiration of this watch makes it an ideal candidate for a striped or khaki NATO
- Hamilton Khaki Field — among the most legitimate watches for a NATO strap, their American military DNA is directly linked to the G10 strap universe
- Seiko Prospex and Seiko 5 Sport — robustness, versatility and excellent value: a perfect trio with a NATO
NATO, leather or steel: how to choose?
The choice of strap depends on use, watch and desired style.
- Leather strap — elegance and refinement for dress watches, but sensitive to moisture and sweat
- Steel bracelet — durability and premium aesthetics, but heavier and more expensive
- NATO strap — water resistance, easy maintenance, wide choice of colours, quick fitting, pass-through security. The most versatile solution for daily or sporting use
Many collectors alternate between the original steel bracelet and a NATO strap depending on the occasion — steel for formal events, NATO for everyday wear and weekends.
The most popular NATO strap colours
The James Bond black and grey NATO
The ultimate reference. Its association with Sean Connery's Rolex Submariner in Goldfinger gives it a uniquely iconic status. It is often the first NATO strap a collector purchases.
→ James Bond NATO Strap Black Grey 20mm
Solid black NATO
Understated, elegant, versatile. It pairs with virtually any watch and any outfit — from a dive watch to a dress chronograph.
Navy blue NATO
Ideal on dive watches and Omega Seamasters. Sporting without being ostentatious.
Military khaki NATO
Directly inspired by the military world. Pairs perfectly with Hamilton Khaki Field, Tudor Black Bay Heritage and Seiko field watches.
Grey NATO
An elegant compromise between black and striped. Modern, discreet, compatible with almost any dial colour.
Leather NATO
More discreet, compatible with almost any dial — provided the thickness remains very slim.
FAQ — Everything you need to know about NATO straps
Are NATO straps waterproof?
Yes. The military-grade nylon resists fresh water and salt water equally well. This is one of the main reasons why divers and water sports enthusiasts prefer NATO straps.
Can I swim or dive with a NATO strap?
Absolutely. The NATO strap was designed for extreme operational conditions. It handles swimming, diving and intensive water activities without issue.
How do I clean a NATO strap?
A rinse with warm water and mild soap is sufficient for routine maintenance. For heavier soiling, some models can be gently machine-washed in a laundry bag. Air dry.
What is the most common NATO strap width?
20mm is the most widespread width. It fits the vast majority of sports and dive watches — Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, Omega Speedmaster, Hamilton Khaki Field, Seiko SKX.
What is the difference between a NATO strap and a Zulu strap?
Both use woven nylon with a pass-through construction. The Zulu strap uses thicker round rings and an overall more substantial build. The NATO retains greater refinement and aesthetics closer to the original British military model.
Are NATO straps suitable for luxury watches?
Yes — and this is precisely what drives their success. Many collectors wear their Rolex, Omega, Tudor or Breitling on a NATO strap. It adds a relaxed touch without compromising the watch's elegance.
Which NATO strap for a Rolex Submariner?
The black and grey James Bond remains the definitive choice. Solid black and navy blue are also highly popular.
Which NATO strap for an Omega Speedmaster?
Anthracite grey, solid black or navy blue pair particularly well with Speedmaster dials.
How long does a NATO strap last?
With normal use and regular maintenance, several years. Resistance to water, UV rays and perspiration contributes directly to its longevity.
Our NATO strap collection
From the iconic James Bond model to the most contemporary colourways, browse our complete catalogue:
James Bond NATO Strap Black Grey 20mm
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